So here I am, back home after landing on Wednesday. I didn't dare let the thought enter my head until I set foot onto the platform on Bickley Station, but all of the travel worked out perfectly - not a single delay or any other problem. I even had an empty seat next to me on the flight home!
What a great trip it was - I had always wanted to spend an extended time in America and it proved to be absolutely fascinating as well as thoroughly enjoyable. I am so grateful to all those who put me up (Jeanna, Tony and Aileen, Lynn and Dana, Flo and Larry) and for looking after me so well. It was great to see some new places (Seattle, Des Moines, Chicago, Toronto, Ottawa, Washington) as well as to see Boston and New York which I had visited a number of times before. The place is so diverse in so many ways - I hope this blog gave a bit of a flavour of that.
I hope you enjoyed reading it!
PS All my photos are on Flickr - click here.
Friday, August 13, 2010
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Hot Wash
Tuesday 10 August
I got the Metro down to the Capitol and went into the impressive newly-built Visitors' Center for the tour that I had booked. It started with a film about the origins and work of Congress and then up to the Rotunda beneath the great dome. There are all sorts of paintings depicting scenes from US history and sculptures of the great and the good all around. On the ceiling there is an image of George Washington ascending Christ-like into heaven - slightly curious, I thought! On to the National Statuary Hall which is in the former House of Representatives chamber and which apparently used to contain all the statues until the floor began to show signs of stress! The chamber has interesting acoustics which mean that you can hear quite quiet voices from the other side of it if you stand in the right places. This was apparently used to listen in on opponents' conversations!
I then queued up to see into the House of Representatives - there was a debate going on which is unusual for August. One of the Republican members from California was laying into the Democrats' handling of the economy and a Democrat from Colorado was replying blaming everything on the previous (Republican) administration. Unfortunately the Senate was closed so I didn't get to see that.
I went out into the searing heat (forecast to reach 98F!) to get the bus to see the National Cathedral. This is about 3-4 miles outside the city centre and took me through an interesting area called Georgetown with lots of interesting colonial architecture. The cathedral is huge - started in 1907 and not finished until 1990. It is built in the Gothic style and they used medieval techniques in its construction. There was a free tour which was fascinating - pointing out not only objects from around the world (the pulpit came from Canterbury) but from even further afield - one of the stained glass windows has at its centre a rock from the Moon!
I went back into downtown Washington and had a look at the White House Visitors' Center which had displays giving details of its history and construction and then walked a few blocks to Ford's Theatre. This is where Abraham Lincoln was assassinated in 1865 and it has been restored very well. The Presidential box is still there - I wonder whether and other presidents have watched a play from there! They still do productions, although not in the summer. Across the road is the Petersen House where Lincoln was taken after he was shot and where he died the following morning - it is open to the public so I was able to stand in the very room where he died!
From there it was back to the hotel to collect my suitcase (there was a panicky five minutes when they couldn't find it!) and onto the train (packed with commuters) and then the bus to Dulles Airport for my flight home. All went like clockwork (as has all the travel on this trip) and the flight to Heathrow took off on time at 10.05pm.
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| The Rotunda, US Capitol |
I then queued up to see into the House of Representatives - there was a debate going on which is unusual for August. One of the Republican members from California was laying into the Democrats' handling of the economy and a Democrat from Colorado was replying blaming everything on the previous (Republican) administration. Unfortunately the Senate was closed so I didn't get to see that.
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| Washington National Cathedral |
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| Presidential box, Ford's Theatre |
From there it was back to the hotel to collect my suitcase (there was a panicky five minutes when they couldn't find it!) and onto the train (packed with commuters) and then the bus to Dulles Airport for my flight home. All went like clockwork (as has all the travel on this trip) and the flight to Heathrow took off on time at 10.05pm.
The National Mall
Monday 9 August
My plan was to walk the length of the National Mall so I walked down to the Lincoln Memorial - even at 10am it was already sweltering! The Memorial stands in a huge circle by the Potomac River and is in the form of a Greek temple with an enormous statue of Lincoln seated and looking out towards the Washington Monument. There was a sign saying that there would be a talk by a National Park ranger so I waited around for that. I had expected it to be 10-15 minutes long but it turned out to be 40 minutes of fascinating detail about Lincoln's life, the construction of the monument and events (such as Martin Luther King's "I have dream" speech) that have taken place since it was built.
I walked down to the left hand side of the Mall to look at the Vietnam Memorial which consists of black granite slabs with the names of thousands of soldiers who dies engraved in it. On the other side of the Mall I looked at the Korean War Memorial which has sculptures of soldiers struggling through the paddy fields.
Next stop was the WWII Memorial, which almost like a circular temple surrounding a big shallow pool. Since a number of others were dipping their feet in the water, I thought I would too. Bliss!
I walked past the Washington Memorial and the Capitol came into full view although still three quarters of a mile away. On either side of the Mall at this point there are a number of museums belonging to the Smithsonian Institution and I made my way to the Museum of American History. This was a huge place with displays about the development of transport in the US, the office of President and entertainment down the years. Bearing in mind this is only one of many Smithsonian museums it is mind-boggling to think what the rest of it must contain.
After a couple of hours in the museum I continued down to the Capitol to take some pictures and to find out where to go for my tour booked for tomorrow.
I went back to the hotel and after dinner went down to take some night-time shots of the White House.
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| Lincoln Memorial |
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| Korean Memorial |
Next stop was the WWII Memorial, which almost like a circular temple surrounding a big shallow pool. Since a number of others were dipping their feet in the water, I thought I would too. Bliss!
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| US Capitol |
After a couple of hours in the museum I continued down to the Capitol to take some pictures and to find out where to go for my tour booked for tomorrow.
I went back to the hotel and after dinner went down to take some night-time shots of the White House.
Monday, August 9, 2010
To the capital
I walked down to Columbus Circle to look at the breakfast options at the Whole Foods Market and discovered that they had an excellent breakfast bar with some unusual offerings such as nice frittatas and breakfast pizza.
After packing I checked out of the hostel and made my way to the subway. There were lifts down to the platforms which made dragging my case rather easier. It was just as well I had left plenty of time as I mistakenly went one stop too far and had to come back again! I eventually got to 42nd St station which is linked via ramps, walkways and escalators to the Port Authority Bus Terminal. I was booked on the 1.30pm bus to Washington and had been told to get there an hour early. As it was 12.15 I joined the queue and within 5 minutes I was on a bus and leaving the terminal! They had put me on an earlier one.
The journey was pleasant although there was some heavy traffic in some places. It went through New Jersey and bypassed Philidelphia before crossing a huge bridge over a river into Delaware where the driver sensibly came off the freeway to avoid a jam. A short time later the bus crossed into Maryland and back onto the freeway. There were good views of Baltimore as we went past and we got to the Bus terminal in Washington at about 4.45. I jumped into a taxi which took me to my hotel, Club Quarters, which is just two blocks from the White House.
After a bit of a rest I went down to the White House to take some photos in the evening light and walked around to the other side. There was heavy security at that side and it wasn't possible to get very close although I could see some people out on the lawn - Barack and Michelle maybe?
I walked up to the Washington Monument and took some pictures down the National Mall of the Capitol at one end and the Lincoln Memorial at the other. In contrast to New York with its buildings crammed together there is an amazing feeling of space in Washington - the National Mall is much wider than I had imagined.
I had dinner at a bar/restaurant and was served a gigantic steak - and that was apparently the smaller of the two options!
After packing I checked out of the hostel and made my way to the subway. There were lifts down to the platforms which made dragging my case rather easier. It was just as well I had left plenty of time as I mistakenly went one stop too far and had to come back again! I eventually got to 42nd St station which is linked via ramps, walkways and escalators to the Port Authority Bus Terminal. I was booked on the 1.30pm bus to Washington and had been told to get there an hour early. As it was 12.15 I joined the queue and within 5 minutes I was on a bus and leaving the terminal! They had put me on an earlier one.
The journey was pleasant although there was some heavy traffic in some places. It went through New Jersey and bypassed Philidelphia before crossing a huge bridge over a river into Delaware where the driver sensibly came off the freeway to avoid a jam. A short time later the bus crossed into Maryland and back onto the freeway. There were good views of Baltimore as we went past and we got to the Bus terminal in Washington at about 4.45. I jumped into a taxi which took me to my hotel, Club Quarters, which is just two blocks from the White House.
I walked up to the Washington Monument and took some pictures down the National Mall of the Capitol at one end and the Lincoln Memorial at the other. In contrast to New York with its buildings crammed together there is an amazing feeling of space in Washington - the National Mall is much wider than I had imagined.
I had dinner at a bar/restaurant and was served a gigantic steak - and that was apparently the smaller of the two options!
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Million-Dollar views
Saturday 7 August
After breakfast I wandered through Central Park over to the East Side and to the Frick Collection on E 70th Street. Henry Clay Frick was a coke and steel magnate who lived in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. He amassed a huge fortune which he spent on works of art - paintings, sculpture and furniture - and an enormous mansion to put them in. The house cost $5 million in 1914 and when Frick died in 1919 his collection was valued at around $15 million. In his will he stated that after his wife's death (she lived until 1931) the house and the collection should be left to the nation as a museum. It is an amazing place - hard to imagine you're in New York City as it is more like a cross between an English stately home, a French château and an Italian villa. Some of the most famous paintings in the world are there - Holbeins, Gainsboroughs, Constables, Turners, French Impressionist and far more. Frick clearly wanted works that would fit well into home so there is nothing that might offend or make the viewer uncomfortable.
I took a walk along Fifth Avenue past the park and back to the Rockefeller Center. This time there was no wait for tickets to the Top of the Rock so up I went! The observatory is on three levels on the 67th and 68th floors as well as on the roof. Although not as high at the Empire State Building it has an amazing view and there is more space and fewer people. And, of course, there is a great view of the ESB itself.
The tour company that is arranging our choir tour had laid on a complementary ticket for a twilight cruise so I went down to Pier 78 and boarded the boat. As the sun set, it sailed gently down the Hudson River, around the tip of Lower Manhattan and up the East River as far as the UN building. It then turned around and went back the same way, by which time it was dark and there were great views of the nighttime skyline.
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| Garden Court, Frick Collection |
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| View from Top of the Rock |
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| Lower Manhattan from the boat |
Saturday, August 7, 2010
West Side Story
Friday 6 August
I had breakfast in the café attached to the hostel and then met up with Lauren, one of the managers, who showed me round the various facilities, including a nice pool and lots of other sports facilities - this gives me a good idea of what's available when I bring the school choir here in April.
I took the subway up to 110th St to meet Christopher Wells, who will be our accompanist on the tour. Christopher is the organist of Christ Church, Bronxville, which is about half an hour north of Manhattan, where we will be singing alongside his choir. I took the choir from Bilton Grange there in 2004 and the Bickley Park boys there in 2007. It was great to catch up with Christopher and to go with him to St John the Divine Cathedral on the Upper West Side, one of the other venues at which we will be performing. The cathedral is apparently the biggest in the world (St Peter's in Rome is bigger, but that's a basilica!) and should be a very exciting place to perform. We were shown around by Marnie, who also answered any questions we had - very useful. We then wandered around the building - a very beautiful and peaceful place.
We then returned to the subway - Christoper got off at 50th St as he was meeting someone for lunch and continued all the way to South Ferry at the southern tip of Manhattan. I wandered up through the Financial District, past Wall Street, and to Hanover Square which is where the British Garden is. This was built to honour the British victims of 9/11 and contains plants from Britain and features such as City of London bollards and stonework from Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales. On the ground there is a kind of narrow meandering pathway containing names of English, Scottish, Welsh and Northern Irish counties.
I walked up to South Street Seaport and queued up at the half price to ticket booth there. This time I was successful in getting a ticket for West Side Story.
I walked over to St Paul's Chapel, which will be our third venue in April. I have been here many times before but I thought I would take a few photos to show the parents. The chapel is one of the oldest buildings in New York and still contains the pew where George Washington worshipped. In recent years it has been closely linked with 9/11 as it stands opposite the site of the former World Trade Center. I walked over to Grond Zero - this is the first time I have seen evidence of construction here as, understandably, there have been all sorts of arguments as to what should be done with the site. They are now building the new One World Trade Center which will once more be New York's tallest building. The footprints of the original Twin Towers will become huge pools surrounded by waterfalls. I had a look at a new exhibition nearby which gave details of the plans.
I took the subway up a few stops to W 14th St and walked over to Gansevoort St which is where the High Line starts. This is a brand new project which is converting a former elevated freight railway into a park. It is brilliant - a walkway above the streets lined with plants and whacky modern art installations, with great views of the City all around. Currently it only stretches from 14th to 20th St but it will eventually go all the way up to 34th St.
I took the subway to W 53rd and walked down to the Rockefeller Center to see whether I could go up to the Top of the Rock observation deck but the next available time didn't give me enough time to be back safely for the theatre.
I had dinner at Ellen's Stardust Diner which has live singers singing songs from the shows, etc. - great fun!
I wandered around Times Square taking photos before going to the Palace Theater, which is at the north end of Times Square for the performance. I had never seen a professional production of West Side Story and it certainly didn't disappoint. The sets and lights were brilliant but what was central was fantastic singing and dancing - some modern musicals could learn something from that. The work is an absolute masterpiece.
It was thrilling to come out straight into Times Square which was thronging with people out to enjoy themselves on a Friday night.
I had breakfast in the café attached to the hostel and then met up with Lauren, one of the managers, who showed me round the various facilities, including a nice pool and lots of other sports facilities - this gives me a good idea of what's available when I bring the school choir here in April.
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| Cathedral of St John the Divine |
We then returned to the subway - Christoper got off at 50th St as he was meeting someone for lunch and continued all the way to South Ferry at the southern tip of Manhattan. I wandered up through the Financial District, past Wall Street, and to Hanover Square which is where the British Garden is. This was built to honour the British victims of 9/11 and contains plants from Britain and features such as City of London bollards and stonework from Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales. On the ground there is a kind of narrow meandering pathway containing names of English, Scottish, Welsh and Northern Irish counties.
I walked up to South Street Seaport and queued up at the half price to ticket booth there. This time I was successful in getting a ticket for West Side Story.
I walked over to St Paul's Chapel, which will be our third venue in April. I have been here many times before but I thought I would take a few photos to show the parents. The chapel is one of the oldest buildings in New York and still contains the pew where George Washington worshipped. In recent years it has been closely linked with 9/11 as it stands opposite the site of the former World Trade Center. I walked over to Grond Zero - this is the first time I have seen evidence of construction here as, understandably, there have been all sorts of arguments as to what should be done with the site. They are now building the new One World Trade Center which will once more be New York's tallest building. The footprints of the original Twin Towers will become huge pools surrounded by waterfalls. I had a look at a new exhibition nearby which gave details of the plans.
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| The High Line |
I took the subway to W 53rd and walked down to the Rockefeller Center to see whether I could go up to the Top of the Rock observation deck but the next available time didn't give me enough time to be back safely for the theatre.
I had dinner at Ellen's Stardust Diner which has live singers singing songs from the shows, etc. - great fun!
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| Palace Theater |
It was thrilling to come out straight into Times Square which was thronging with people out to enjoy themselves on a Friday night.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Start spreadin' the news
Thursday 5 August
I left Watertown fairly early and got on the road to New York City. The landscape of upstate New York couldn't be more different from the city - miles of forests and mountains with dramatic valleys and rivers and very few buildings. It is amazing that, given all this space, human beings need to live in crowded cities with skyscrapers getting ever taller. The weather on the journey was pretty dramatic - at one point it rained so hard I pulled off the freeway and stopped until it eased. I decided not to take the sat nav's advice to go via Scranton, New Jersey and instead took route 17, which was rather more scenic.
Eventually the unmistakeable Manhattan skyline came into view and I took a deep breath before braving the New York City roads. Actually, the traffic was fine and I parked up by the YMCA on W 63rd St where I had three free nights' accommodation thanks to the school choir trip I'm planning for April 2011. Once checked in I took one last drive in N America (at least for this trip!) and left the car at the rental location on E 80th St.
I took a trip to B&H electronics store, which is an amazing place on the corner of 34th St and 9th Ave. There are several stages to the purchase. First you select what you want and take it to the desk, or for bigger purchases tell the assistant what you want. They then put it in a big plastic box which disappears along a track/conveyor belt. You then line up to pay at the cashier's desk and finally go to pick it up, by which time it has travelled along to that point and has been put in a bag for you to take away! It is actually all rather more slick than it sounds!
After that I walked up to Times Square to see if there were any tickets available at the half-price ticket booth for a show. I had noticed that West Side Story was on but unfortunately there was nothing left so I decided to try again tomorrow. Times Square is a little different from the last time I was here - the ticket booths have been rebuilt and now look very smart and one side of the square is now closed to traffic which makes a pedestrian's life much easier.
I wandered back along Broadway towards the hostel and looked into the Time Warner building at Columbus Circle which has a big shopping mall. In the basement is a big "Whole Foods" store which is a combined self-service restaurant and supermarket. I decided to have my meal there - very tasty, wholesome and cheap!
I left Watertown fairly early and got on the road to New York City. The landscape of upstate New York couldn't be more different from the city - miles of forests and mountains with dramatic valleys and rivers and very few buildings. It is amazing that, given all this space, human beings need to live in crowded cities with skyscrapers getting ever taller. The weather on the journey was pretty dramatic - at one point it rained so hard I pulled off the freeway and stopped until it eased. I decided not to take the sat nav's advice to go via Scranton, New Jersey and instead took route 17, which was rather more scenic.
Eventually the unmistakeable Manhattan skyline came into view and I took a deep breath before braving the New York City roads. Actually, the traffic was fine and I parked up by the YMCA on W 63rd St where I had three free nights' accommodation thanks to the school choir trip I'm planning for April 2011. Once checked in I took one last drive in N America (at least for this trip!) and left the car at the rental location on E 80th St.
I took a trip to B&H electronics store, which is an amazing place on the corner of 34th St and 9th Ave. There are several stages to the purchase. First you select what you want and take it to the desk, or for bigger purchases tell the assistant what you want. They then put it in a big plastic box which disappears along a track/conveyor belt. You then line up to pay at the cashier's desk and finally go to pick it up, by which time it has travelled along to that point and has been put in a bag for you to take away! It is actually all rather more slick than it sounds!
After that I walked up to Times Square to see if there were any tickets available at the half-price ticket booth for a show. I had noticed that West Side Story was on but unfortunately there was nothing left so I decided to try again tomorrow. Times Square is a little different from the last time I was here - the ticket booths have been rebuilt and now look very smart and one side of the square is now closed to traffic which makes a pedestrian's life much easier.
I wandered back along Broadway towards the hostel and looked into the Time Warner building at Columbus Circle which has a big shopping mall. In the basement is a big "Whole Foods" store which is a combined self-service restaurant and supermarket. I decided to have my meal there - very tasty, wholesome and cheap!
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